Interview
with Dr. Ben Kim on the Place of Soy in the Health Food Arena
An
Interview Conducted by Josh Day with Dr. Ben Kim DrBenKim.com
Health
& Beyond editor Josh Day recently sat down with Dr. Kim to ask him a few questions
on a topic that's always hot in the health food world. We're talking about soy...
what it is, what it does in your body, and why you see soy this and soy that on
almost every aisle of your local health food store.
Let's
jump straight into the interview, shall we?
Josh:
What exactly is soy?
Dr. Kim: Soybeans are legumes - they look like peas in a pod, but they're
larger. Soybeans are rich in protein, omega-3 fatty acids, tryptophan, fiber,
iron, and a bunch of other minerals.
All of the soy products on the
market today - soy milk, tofu, soy sauce, miso, tempeh - they're made using soybeans,
and in most cases, additional ingredients are added.
Josh: Whats
up with everything we hear about fermented and unfermented soy?
Dr. Kim: Foods made with fermented soy are thought to be healthier than those
made with unfermented soy. Examples of foods made with fermented soy are
miso, tempeh, and naturally brewed soy sauce.
Tofu and soy milk
are examples of foods made with unfermented soy, although sometimes, tofu, once
its made, is fermented to produce fermented tofu dishes in East Asian cooking
mostly Chinese.
Josh: Is soy as good for you as many in the
health food movement would have us believe?
Dr. Kim: To me, soy is
just another food. I think that you can eat soy and be healthy, but you dont
need to eat it to be healthy.
Josh: In health food stores you see
"soy" everything -- soy milk, soy dairy, etc. Many people, especially
vegans, consume soy as if it were oxygen. They think they're doing their body
good but perhaps they're not?
Dr. Kim: Right, I think the most important
point here is that its best to eat a variety of foods. Anytime you eat too
much of one specific food, especially if that food is rich in protein, you may
increase your risk of eventually becoming intolerant to that food. Ive seen
this happen to people with soy milk, tahini, almonds, and a number of other protein-dense
foods.
Lots of processed foods made with soy like meat-substitutes
theyre made with soy protein isolate,
which is a highly processed food that cant be as good for us as soybeans
that are minimally or naturally processed.
Fermentation is a natural
type of processing that doesnt have the potential to hurt the nutrient value
of soybeans the way that high temperature processing techniques do.
I
think I know what youre getting at with this question. Some people become
vegan and turn to soy cheese, soy burgers, soy hot dogs, soy nuggets, soy ice
cream, soy yogurt, soy everything to feel like they arent depriving themselves
of foods that they enjoyed in the past. The vast majority of these highly processed
foods are made with soy protein isolate and preservatives, and in my opinion,
theyre no better than French fries, donuts, and regular fast food fare.
Josh: Is "soy" milk or "soy" cheese any better
than, say, the bottled parmesan "cheese" that comes in a cardboard can?
Dr. Kim: Soy milk - if its made with whole, organic soy beans and its
not sweetened - I think can be a healthy food choice. But again, the key is to
drink it in moderation. A cup or two of good soy milk a few times a week in your
smoothies or on your cereal is fine, in my opinion. Soy milk that is made with
soy protein isolate and/or has added sugar, even if the sugar is from a natural
source, like evaporated cane juice, is probably no better for us than Tang. In
fact, if its made with soy protein isolate, its probably worse than
Tang, because with Tang, you arent getting highly processed protein into
your system.
Soy cheese my understanding is that some brands
of soy cheese contain casein, the protein found in animal milk. And casein is
problematic for a lot of people. If youre going to eat soy cheese, I would
say to pick a brand that is casein-free and made with soy milk that is made with
whole, organic soy beans. And again, I would recommend eating it in moderation,
say a couple of times a week at most.
Parmesan cheese I dont
know much about how the parmesan cheese that comes in a cardboard can is made,
so I cant say how healthy a food choice it is. What I can say is that any
food that is made with pasteurized milk isnt a great choice because it contains
casein thats been heated at a high temperature. I think that Dr. T. Colin
Campbell of The China Study believes that theres a strong association
between casein intake and risk of different types of cancer and other degenerative
diseases. I tend to agree with this, but I cant say the same thing about
raw dairy products. Casein that is unheated and found in milk that comes from
a healthy animal that is allowed to live in a natural setting may be just fine
just look at groups of people out there mostly Caucasians
who live long and healthy lives with raw dairy as staples this includes
different types of cheese made with raw dairy.
If youre asking
me to compare soy cheese that is casein-free and made with soy milk that is made
with whole, organic soy beans vs. Parmesan cheese thats grated fresh from
one of those big cylindrical blocks made with raw milk, the kind that you see
on one of those Food Network travel shows (I think Malto Mario did one of those
is he really Italian? Because he looks Irish to me Margaret and
I have a running bet on this), then I think the answer just depends on each persons
physiology.
For me, being of Asian descent, soy cheese is probably a
healthier choice than Parmesan cheese. And for you, being Caucasian, assuming
that you arent lactose-intolerant, fresh Parmesan cheese is probably the
better choice. Just so you know, I dont eat soy or dairy cheese. Well, sometimes,
I get a bit in some food at a restaurant, but this probably happens about once
a year at most.
Josh: Do you use soy products in your home? If so,
what kinds, and do you believe there is any health benefit?
Dr. Kim:
Sure, we use den jang, which is the Korean version of miso its a
paste thats made with fermented soy beans. We get it from a Korean market
in Toronto in a big tub. Its made in Korea with organic soybeans. Mostly,
we use it to make den jang soup, which is made by boiling onions, zucchini, spinach,
and sometimes some mushrooms in vegetable broth, and adding some of the paste
after the vegetables are ready and the heat is turned off. You have to smear the
soybean paste along the sides of the pot to get it to blend in with the rest of
the soap. Or what Margaret does is she holds a medium size strainer in the soup
and uses a spoon to push the den jang through the strainer as it dissolves into
the broth.
We also use soy sauce we usually use Kikkoman
its naturally fermented for several months.
When we use soy sauce,
we use just a bit, just to add a little flavour. You know youve used too
much if you wake up the next morning with a swollen face. I did this once when
I lived in Korea.
Naturally fermented soy sauce and den jang are rich
in friendly bacteria, and den jang is rich in protein, iron, tryptophan
all of the nutrients that I mentioned before are in soybeans I guess those
are the health benefits. Oh, and soy sauce, if its made properly, is extremely
rich in naturally occurring antioxidants its a much richer source
of antioxidants than most types of red wine.
Josh: I love fried rice.
A lot of people don't know fried rice is simply cooked rice, white or brown, stir
fried in a wok or hibachi grill with soy sauce. Now, I've heard soy sauce is not
good for you. Is this true?
Dr. Kim: I think that it mostly depends
on the brand that you use. Some companies make soy sauce by boiling soybeans for
a day before adding color and artificial flavors some of these brands contain
MSG or compounds that very closely resemble MSG.
Most brands of soy
sauce are pretty high in salt, so its best to use small bits at a time.
People who have health issues that are exacerbated by significant salt intake
should probably avoid soy sauce.
Also, a few years ago, a government
agency in the U.K. found that some brands of soy sauce contained dangerous amounts
of a couple of different chemicals. The thing is, these chemicals were found in
brands that were made with the short-cut method. Bottom line: if you use small
amounts of a high quality soy sauce thats been fermented over several months,
I think this is fine for most people. Josh: How prevalent is soy in
Korean cooking? I see soy sauce in Japanese and Chinese food all the time.
Dr. Kim: I think that its used about as often as we use it. Den Jang
(miso) is used to make soup, which is probably eaten a few times a week in most
Korean homes. Soy sauce is used to add flavour to some dishes, almost always in
small amounts. Soy sauce is also used as a part of marinades for various meat
dishes. Ah, and tofu we sometimes add little cubes of tofu to our soups,
and sometimes, Koreans will make a separate side dish with tofu sometimes
cooked, sometimes raw with a sauce thats made with soy sauce, sesame seeds,
and green onions.
Josh: What's the relationship between soy and MSG?
Dr. Kim: My understanding is that quality brands of naturally fermented soy
sauce dont have added MSG or MSG-like compounds. Cheaper brands use hydrolyzed
vegetable protein, which behaves like MSG in the body.
Unless youve
been eating foods with MSG for a long time, its likely that your body will
let you know whenever you eat something that has added MSG or an MSG-like substance.
Some of the more common symptoms that people experience after eating MSG are pounding
headaches, heart palpitations, sweating, a flushed feeling, nausea, weakness,
and shortness of breath.
Several people have told me that they tend
to have really crazy dreams whenever they eat MSG this makes sense, as
MSG is considered an excitotoxin that can rapidly stimulate brain tissue. Bottom
line: if you use a high quality, naturally fermented soy sauce, and you use it
sparingly, you probably dont have to worry about getting MSG from soy sauce.
Note
from Ben Kim:
Eating
large amounts of unfermented soy products on a regular basis is likely harmful
to human health for a variety of reasons, including high phytate content and possible
contamination with Aluminum.
Some
in the anti-soy camp point to the potential that soy has to be an "endocrine
disruptor," while others in this camp believe that the phytoestrogen content
of soy can increase one's risk of developing breast cancer.
To
the best of my knowledge, there are no definitive studies in the peer-reviewed,
indexed body of literature that offer conclusive proof to back up these anti-soy
claims. I find some of these claims to be in the alarmism zone - for example,
to say that any food is an "endocrine disruptor" is a generalization
that doesn't mean anything to me, as every food that we eat and every thought
that we think technically disrupts our endocrine systems.
As
I mentioned in this interview with Josh Day, I feel that it is prudent to eat
all foods - including soy - in moderation. And I do feel that it's better for
human health to eat fermented forms of soy over unfermented varieties.
The
bottom line for me is that I know too many healthy Korean and Chinese folks in
their 80's and even their 90's who have long enjoyed den jang (miso) and tofu
to be able to believe that including some soy in one's diet is a critical mistake.
If you enjoy soy, my advice is to eat the best varieties available to you in moderation,
and to be filled with peace and compassion as you eat it.
And
for the record, my wife and I love Malto Mario. :)
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